In actuality, it was a soldier and former blacksmith named Manuel de Ocio. 

It’s not a name most people know, since most people don’t know that Baja California was the original California. In fact, from the first landing of Hernán Cortés in La Paz in 1535 until 1769, it was the only part of California to be settled by European colonizers. In this case, Jesuit missionaries and their attendant support staff, which included a few dozen soldiers to protect them from the native tribes of nomadic hunter-gatherers they were trying to convert, and a few sailors to help ferry needed supplies from mainland México. 

Ocio was born in 1700 in Andalusia, Spain, but his first documented presence in peninsular California was in 1733, when he was listed on the presidio rolls at Loreto as a soldier at full pay. 

It was the next year, however, that he first stepped into history, helping to save the life of Padre Sigismundo Taraval in Todos Santos, after indigenous Pericúes revolted and killed the Jesuit padres at Santiago (Lorenzo Carranco) and San José del Cabo (Nicolás Tamaral). Ocio and two other soldiers had the foresight to spirit the good father Taraval away before the mission at Todos Santos and that at La Paz were also destroyed during the three-year uprising subsequently known as The Rebellion of the Pericúes. 

Life on the peninsular frontier wasn’t all danger, however. In 1741, Ocio was serving at the mission in San Ignacio when a powerful chubasco threw up an enormous quantity of oyster shells onto beaches at the 28th parallel (near the northern border of modern day Baja California Sur). 

The local Cochimí tribe knew that Spaniards were fond of shiny pearls, so they decided to barter the information in trade for items they found useful. Ocio was one of a few soldiers to learn the news, but the only one with the experience and connections to truly take advantage of the opportunity. He immediately retired as a soldier and hurried off to Guadalajara (then capital of Nueva Galicia) to acquire everything he would need for a full-scale pearling operation, from canoes to crews and more goods to barter with the Cochimí.

Over the next three years, he would harvest over 400 pounds of pearls. They weren’t the best of quality, but they were enough to make him rich and finance his subsequent investments, which included the first peninsular silver mining operation at Santa Ana – just south of modern day mining towns El Triunfo and San Antonio – a ranching business with up to 16,000 head of cattle at its peak, and a merchant store. He also invested his earnings in real estate, buying at least 14 houses in Guadalajara, which he used for rental income. 

Ocio, as the first rich man and the first real taxpayer in California, also acquired the right to impose the “King’s Fifth” on other would-be pearlers. In short, he established a sort of mini business empire in the heart of Jesuit California; which, by the way, brought him continually into conflict and litigation with his former employers over the next 20+ years. 

How did he do it? What were the connections that helped him take advantage of a golden opportunity? Well, for starters, he married well. 

Here’s the story…

Born in Portugal, Esteban Rodríguez Lorenzo was one of the first men recruited by the Jesuits for their California venture, and was one of the original 10 who landed on the beach in Loreto in 1697. He was captain of the presidio for nearly 40 years, making him the highest ranking secular figure on the peninsula. He was, in effect, both governor and justicia mayor, the chief justice in charge of settling civil disputes.

After briefly resigning his post, Rodríguez returned to the mainland, where he met María de Larrea. The two were married in 1707, and became the first settlers to start a family in California, having seven children. Ocio married the sixth, daughter Rosalía, who was born in 1717. Another daughter, María, married Pedro de la Riva, who became lieutenant of the Escuadra del Sur, the presidio substation established in San José del Cabo in the early 1740s.

These connections were crucial to Ocio’s success. His father-in-law expedited his retirement to pursue his pearling opportunity, and his brother-in-law helped defend the Real de Santa Ana mines against native tribes. Unfortunately, wealth would not bring Ocio happiness. His wife and one of his two sons, Mariano, died within five years of the opening of the mines in 1748. 

But Ocio remains a hugely important California historical figure for several reasons. One, he was the first entrepreneur. Two, his money helped finance the settlement of what would become known as Alta California, and eventually the U.S. state of California. 

It happened like this…

After the Jesuits were expelled from all Spanish territories in 1767, and the Franciscans installed in California, Ocio paid to have one of his ships bring visitador generál José del Gálvez to California, and hosted Gálvez when he established his headquarters at Santa Ana. It was Gálvez who planned expansion and oversaw the 1769 expedition of Gaspar de Portolá and Junípero Serra into Alta California, which gave birth to a new territory (with devastating consequences for what, after 1804, would come to be known as Baja California). 

The consequences for Ocio of this generosity would also prove devastating. He was fleeced in card games by officials of Gálvez and, in 1771, murdered by two of Gálvez’s imported miners, who were in the process of robbing Ocio’s storehouse. 

It’s not a storybook ending by any means, but Ocio’s tragic downfall should not obscure the third and most important reason his legacy endures today.

The mines at Real de Santa Ana required a workforce that would eventually reach over 300 people, drawing laborers from the mainland who would not only help populate California, but become the founders of many pioneer peninsular families (like the Cota family), whose descendants are still prominent in Los Cabos today.

In fact, you never know when you might meet one. 

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Saludos from Co-Founders…

Chris Sands – Writer and Michael Mattos

The post The History of Los Cabos –The First Rich Man in California appeared first on CaboViVO.

Part of a luxury master-planned community adjacent to the coastline of Baja’s inland Pacific marine sanctuary, Danzante Bay Golf Club debuted 11 holes late last year.  The new seven holes will play as No. 2 through No. 8.

“We’re thrilled to unveil the completed 18 holes,” said Owen Perry, owner and president of The Villa Group, developer of the property. “It is like no other place. We have been able to create a golf experience that changes as you play, on a golf course that allows you to see and landscape and wildlife that you never would have seen before.”

The views at Danzante Bay stretch out toward the indigo horizon, amplifying the shimmering waters of the Sea of Cortez. Golfers can enjoy glimpses of migrating whales and other marine life that surfaces below the jutting cliffs.

The seven new holes cover many different terrains, including beach, cliff, and canyon. They combine the genius of Jones with the natural scenery provided by Mother Nature to charm golfers with views that spread out in virtually every direction.

“The creation of the newest holes is an opportunity for us to showcase a completely different part of the property to golfers,” Jones said. “There are interesting landforms that allow us to create unique holes that are different from, but also complementary to, the other 11 holes.”

Known as “The Open Doctor” for his renovation work on golf courses preparing to host the U.S. Open, Jones fashioned Danzante Bay between the breathtaking Sierra de la Giganta mountain range and the crystal-clear waters of the Sea of Cortez, finding a unique balance for a challenging course that is not overly long or grueling – and thoroughly enjoyable.

Now playing between 4,916 and 7,237 yards from five sets of tees, Danzante Bay features wide fairways and greens that must be carefully judged but are never unfair. Most of the entrances to the greens are open as well — allowing approach shots to run on safely — while the holes along the cliffs feature strategically placed collection areas to keep errant shots from taking the plunge into the blue water below.

Along with the changing terrain come winds that can be different day to day and during the day, conditions that influence shot value and strategy. That, says Jones, makes for a new challenge at Danzante Bay every time.

“The golf course is a complete journey that golfers will really enjoy taking again and again,” Jones said.

Perry believes the new golf course has the potential to position Loreto as one of the best and most sought-after vacation destinations in the world, while still maintaining its serene and secluded environment.

“We are being extremely careful about the integration of the real estate with the golf course,” Perry said. “That is why we gave Rees all the time necessary to build Danzante Bay. His only mandate was to get it right.”

Villa del Palmar Resort takes full advantage of the region’s unique beauty, authentic culture, quiet beaches, scenic vistas, rich history, and natural habitats. The resort’s complimentary shuttle service enables guests to explore historic Loreto and visit the 1697 mission that made the town famous. The area is also known for its wildlife, including the 900 species of fish in an area that has been declared a World Heritage Site.

Guests can also experience Villa del Palmar Beach Resort & Spa’s 4,447 acres of unspoiled beauty. The resort boasts stretches of exquisite shoreline, stunning ocean and mountain views, three outstanding restaurants, five swimming pools, the 39,000-square-foot luxurious Sabila Spa, tennis courts, miles of hiking trails, glass-bottomed kayaks, and sport fishing.

Danzante Bay Golf Club and Villa del Palmar Resort at The Islands of Loreto are only a two-hour non-stop flight from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) on Alaska Airlines. They also are accessible with non-stop flights from Calgary, and from Tijuana via Calafia Airlines (three times a week year-round).

For additional information on the golf course, go to www.danzantebay.com

The post Danzante Bay Golf Club at the Islands of Loreto Ready for December Unveiling appeared first on CaboViVO.

This evocative honorific perfectly captures the unique aesthetic of downtown Todos Santos: a festive whirl of colorful art galleries, red brick buildings housing bookstores and bodegas, and restaurants serving first-class fare, some amid a clutter of surfboards.

Luckily for overnight or longer-term visitors, this enchanting combination of chic appointments, laid-back attitude, and stunning natural settings – the inimitable Todos Santos style – also distinguishes some of the town’s best boutique hotels.

Posada La Poza

There are a few moments driving down the long, winding, dirt road to Posada La Poza when you might question where you are going, and whether anything good can possibly be at the end of a road this bad. But the off-the-beaten-path route – with its enormous ruts and rocks – is an essential part of the journey, and only heightens the sense of wonderment when you finally arrive at your destination.

To say Posada La Poza is a feast for the senses is an understatement. Visually, it’s breathtaking. The property faces west over a magnificently nurtured and sculpted garden – home to over 30 types of palm trees, 50 kinds of cactus, and 100 species of birds – to a large freshwater lagoon, and the vast Pacific Ocean beyond.

Founded by Swiss transplants Juerg and Libusche Wiesendanger, this secluded, eight-suite boutique hotel is a world unto itself. Libusche grew the garden, and has also provided paintings and helped to curate the art for the exquisitely appointed ocean and garden view accommodations. The master suite has its own lounge area and fireplace, as well as a king-sized canopy bed, and a bathroom larger than the average studio apartment, with a hot tub for two. The spacious terrace, shaded by a traditional palo de arco pergola, looks out towards the sea, and is bounded to the north by a dense and picturesque palm grove. Guests can enjoy incredible sunsets from the terrace hammock, drink in hand, while serenaded by the sound of exotic birds and crashing waves.

Breakfast includes fresh fruit and juices – including mangos right off the trees during the summer months – and is served on a small patio graced with colorful paintings and evocative sculptures. Just inside, there is a bar stocked with artisanal tequilas and mezcals. The destination drinking and dining spot at Posada La Poza, however, is El Gusto, which features spectacular ocean views from its elevated “Whale Deck” (yes, transiting whales can be viewed during the winter months). El Gusto serves up some of the finest food in Todos Santos, and is a popular luncheon spot for local couples and families, as well as hotel guests. Organic produce and freshly caught local seafood are the specialties of the house, most notably served Mexican style in smoked tuna flautas and shrimp quesadillas.

The grounds are so spacious that one rarely runs into other guests unless it is at the restaurant, the swimming pool – contoured around a palm tree, or course, with a blissful waterfall nearby – or the adjoining outdoor fitness facilities. Privacy is part of the allure here; the natural beauty is profound, and lends a sort of meditative majesty to the experience that is only enhanced by the superb service.

The Hotelito

The Hotelito has its own kind of magic, but one that’s hard to define.

The owner is an architect and designer, and both skills are evident throughout this strikingly distinctive bed and breakfast…yet it also has a laid-back, almost rural charm.

The property showcases upscale amenities like a 48-foot saltwater lap pool, and top-of-the-line beds shipped specially from the U.S. for maximum comfort…yet guests are invariably invited to meet the meet the onsite menagerie, which includes dogs, goats, a sheep, a horse and a donkey.

The Hotelito is quiet and private, with scenic views of the neighboring orchard and palm grove…yet it’s also very close to the downtown area; within walking distance, and less than two minutes by car from Todos Santos’ top restaurants and art galleries.

It’s stylish and elegant…yet offers warm, downhome service.

The magic is that none of these disparate elements clash. Rather, they combine to create a kind of perfect harmony.

Like most of Todos Santos’ best boutique properties, The Hotelito offers limited lodging – only four casitas, and three rooms at the Hacienda El Chilicote – but with plenty of space; in this case, five sprawling acres just off the Avenida General Topete.

The four casitas are stand-alone guesthouses named according to their dominant color palette (Violeta, Verde, Rosa and Azul), each inspired by notable artists or architects. The beds always draw raves – “a great night’s sleep makes up for any small mistakes,” the owner says – but are complemented by one-of-a-kind furnishings and accents, many bought at auction. Bathrooms feature large, walk-in showers and historical Mexican photographs. Casitas also come with a small selection of books, which may be enjoyed on the private terraces, all of which are outfitted with hammocks and patio furniture.

The Hacienda de Chilicote is an ideal option for traveling families, with a large, high-ceilinged living area complete with fireplace, plus an expansive terrace, and both indoor and outdoor dining spots. Sleeping quarters include three bedrooms, each with its own en suite bathroom.

Breakfast is served to all guests in an airy al fresco café, and casitas share their own kitchen area for cooking and food storage. The vibrantly colored pool lounge is walled off for privacy, and in addition to the enormous saltwater pool, includes tables and chairs, chaise lounges and hammocks. The outdoor shower is set directly beneath a mango tree, a nice tropical touch that yields delicious results during the summer months.

Hacienda Todos Los Santos

This lovely downtown hotel features many unique amenities, among which is the oldest swimming pool in town; a refreshing and picturesque outdoor splash-around spot that dates to the 1950s, when guests from Rancho Las Cruces would visit Todos Santos for the superb white-winged dove hunting. Rancho Las Cruces, for the uninitiated, was the original Baja California Sur based vacation resort, an exclusive and expansive seaside getaway southeast of La Paz that regularly hosted celebrities like Clark Gable, John Wayne, Bing Crosby and Desi Arnaz Jr., as well as U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower.

The founders of Rancho Las Cruces were themselves rather famous. Abelardo “Rod” Rodríguez Jr. was the son of a Mexican President, and like many regional pioneers, an aviator. After serving as a transport pilot during World War II, he became a test pilot, and set a speed record flying between Los Angeles and Mexico City. His wife, Lucille Bremer, was an actress who had co-starred in a film with the legendary Fred Astaire. Together, they turned the then sparsely populated coast of southern Baja into a destination attraction among the smart set, following their success at Rancho San Lucas with Hotel Palmilla, the first true hotel in Los Cabos, and Hotel Hacienda, the first in Cabo San Lucas proper.

The Rodríguez clan remain the region’s first family of hospitality, although patriarch Rod is enjoying his retirement at age 99. Rancho Las Cruces still enjoys an elite clientele, and Rod’s daughter Kali has transformed Hacienda Todos los Santos from a hunting lodge into an utterly charming collection of boutique accommodations, from the roomy suites in Casa de los Santos to fully-furnished, standalone casitas (guesthouses) overlooking a beautiful palm grove.

One suite, Casa Santa Cruz, boasts a wood-burning fireplace, and all suites and casitas feature king or queen-sized beds, comfortably appointed living areas, scenic terraces, kitchens and wet bars, and bathrooms with hand-painted Talavera counters and sinks. Yet another Rodríguez has contributed incredible photos of Todos Santos, which along with the regional paintings and tapestries, clamshell-shaped wall hollows and sunken living areas, give the casitas their distinctive, trademark style.

The location could hardly be improved upon:  set at one end of the town’s main road, Calle Benito Juárez, the hotel is no more than five minutes from anywhere in downtown Todos Santos; yet completely private and secluded. Just look for the pedestal-set bust of beloved President Juárez which marks the property’s entrance, and which was donated to the town by the Rodríguez family.

Todos Santos Inn

No lodging speaks to local history quite like Todos Santos Inn, whose ebbs and flows over the past century and a half have largely mirrored the fortunes of the town itself. Built in 1872 as an estate for a sugar baron, the imposing and stately brick edifice later served as a schoolhouse, notably for future Brigadier General and hero of the Mexican Revolution, Melitón Albañez. During the 1930s, at the height of the Mexican Muralism Movement, artist C.C. Zamora painted the foyer with the lushly evocative murals which still enchant visitors. Zamora’s work prefigured Todos Santos’ rebirth in the 1980s as an artists’ colony, and its subsequent emergence as a destination getaway for discerning travelers.

The weathered old wooden bar in La Copa, the watering hole just off the lobby, looks as if it once supported the elbows of Albañez, Zamora, and every other famous or forgotten figure who passed through town. Nowadays, however, it’s mostly a congenial spot for a mojito or margarita before dinner at the more secluded La Copa Cocina, where Chef Patrick “Patricio Mullen’s eclectic bill of fare ranges from comfort food to dishes featuring fresh local seafood, and even a Japanese style Chicken Nagoya.

But history is never far from one’s mind at the Todos Santos Inn. Not only is the façade reminiscent of another time, but so too are the eight onsite rooms and suites, with their canopied four poster beds, Saltillo tile floors and vintage armoires, desks and dressers. Reclining in a welcoming chair on the flagstone terrace, looking out through splendid red brick arches at palm fronds waving lazily in the breeze, it’s rather easy to imagine oneself as a wealthy 19th century planter, or a character in a novel by Gabriel García Márquez.

Modern conveniences do exist at the Todos Santos Inn, of course, but they remain inconspicuous and unobtrusive. This is not a place where televisions or telephones are standard amenities. It’s an oasis, a haven, a retreat from the hurly burly.

It’s an amazing trick, really, when you consider the Todos Santos Inn has the most central location of any of the town’s small, boutique lodgings:  only a block from the plaza principal, in the heart of the gallery district.  It’s not hidden, but it does have that quality of all great hotels, of filtering out everything that does not fit its carefully imagined and cultivated world.

Visitors never make it past the elegant-long necked swans that Zamora painted on the entryway walls over 80 years ago. Access beyond that point is exclusively reserved for guests, those fortunate few who get to experience Todos Santos as it once was, and still is in a handful of fashionable places.

Want your business, activity or event featured and promoted by CaboViVO, please be sure to contact us here, thanks…

Also visit all of our other Featured Businesses throughout Los Cabos!

Saludos,

Chris Sands

The post Setting x Style: The Beautiful Boutique Hotels of Todos Santos appeared first on CaboViVO.